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Old Mine Cut Diamond Solitaire Ring

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At a glance, a simple, lovely solitaire in 14K yellow gold, but this simple beauty is actually an Old Mine Cut Diamond.  The diamond is estimated at .20 (1/5th carat), SI1-SI2 clarity due to a chip and a few feathers.  There are no inclusions visible to the naked eye.  Color is estimated at J-K.  This is a simple antique beauty.
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Ring Size: US 6.5, British N, French 53.  This ring can resized.

Weight: 1.7 grams or 1.1 dwt

Acid Tests: 14K, Stamped: 14K

Date:  Solitaries are more difficult to date, since they lack the clues provided by the styling on the ring.  In this case, it's the diamond which clues us in on the age of the ring.  Old Mine Cut diamonds where common in the Victorian era and started to be phased into the Old European Cut in the Art Deco period.  This ring has an Old Mine Cut Diamond, which makes this ring likely late Victorian to Art Deco.  It's true they are cutting some new diamonds in the Old Mine Cut style, but the girdle on the new Old Mine Cut diamonds is very thin.  This diamond has a thick girdle.  That's how we know this is an Old, Old Mine Cut Diamond, not a new reproduction.

 
But I thought Old Mine Cut Diamonds were all square...ish?  Not so.  A straight book definition says both Old Mine Cut Diamonds and Old European Cut Diamonds have the thick facets on the bottom, and almost always have a culet, but an Old Mine Cut Diamond has a square\cushion like outline, whereas the Old European Cut diamonds were round.  As with any rule, trying to fit a hard and fast rule to 100 year old diamonds that were cut half by hand and half by the just invented bruting machine, is not going to work.  What we see in the field, just doesn't fit that clean cut of definition.  We sometimes run across diamonds with a very large culet that when viewed under a loupe, are trying to be round, but are truly not round, with the extremely high table indicative of Old Mine Cut diamonds, set into a clearly early Victorian ring.  Knowing that the bruting machine wasn't invented till 1891 and the ring in our hand clearly predates 1891, it becomes clear that the round of these diamonds was done by hand, not by machine.  To call these Old European, would group them in with Old European Cut Diamonds that sometimes have lower tables, are truly round, have a smaller culet, set into a clearly Art Deco ring, thirty years after the invention of the bruting machine.  The two diamonds just don't have the same cut and proportions, similar yes, but not the same.  So to summarize, if a diamond is trying to be round, but is clearly not, has a large culet, and a very high table, to call it Old Mine Cut is a truer definition of the diamonds cut.

 

Note: We do not remove stones from their settings and therefor stone weights may vary.  We test all diamonds using the Gemlogis Ciel Diamond\Moissanite tester.

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